Thursday, 4 April 2013

THE LIGHT SHOW

It seems entirely fitting that as Spring slowly draws the blind up on winter and a swathe of timid sunlight paints a pale stripe down the wall, the first major exhibitions of the year should also put the spotlight on that most essential of elements, light.


Our giant light reflective tassel. I hide in it when I'm feeling melancholy.

MAN RAY PORTRAITS

Man Ray, aka 'The Master Of Light' is renown as one of the most experimental and creative artists who used the medium of photography. This self-taught American, born in 1890, is mainly associated with the Surrealist and Dada movements of the early 20th century. His meeting and subsequent friendship of Dada French Artist, Marcel Duchamp at an Artists Colony in New Jersey resulted in him moving to Paris in 1921 and mingling with the Avant Guarde that would later become his subjects.
Winding your way through The National Portrait Gallery's 'Man Ray Portraits' your path is lit by 20th century luminaries. The intense dark eyes of Dali, Picasso and Cocteau follow your every response and The Beautiful, The Powerful and The Downright Bizarre are surrounded by halos of light, silver linings or placed in surreal settings with intent to fascinate your attention. Ray's manipulation of light and shadow to cause solarization is a signature look of his work.


Above, two of Man Ray's portraits.
Left, The beautiful Lee Millar, 1929, and Man Ray's then lover, who went on to be a highly acclaimed fine art, and later a war photographer, in her own right, and was one of the first people into Dachau concentration camp when it was liberated in 1945.
Right,Genica Athanasiou 1933. Man Ray's first colour portrait. 

Viewing these photographs and others from recent exhibitions- Beaton at the Imperial War Museum, Storyteller [Tim Walker] and the current Landmark [look out for Pivot Irrigation by Edward Burtynsky -an extraordinary beautiful image of a landscape the everyday would consider barren] at Somerset House, made me think about the photographers connection to his/her craft. It's easy to forget, in this digital age where the kit becomes more sophisticated by the minute and we can process/edit/delete our own images at the touch of a button, the excitement of being locked in a darkroom [especially if it's with the object of your desire], inhaling those heady toner fumes and watching, through a number of intense processes, an image slowly materializing before your eyes.
The ongoing debate as to whether photographic images constitute Art [Man Ray often felt they didn't]now has another front, the heated battle between film v digital. Both sides have their champions and the question- Which do you prefer?- is one I've posed to many a photographer. But, as one photographer put it- If you don't have the creative eye for composition in the first place neither format matters- 
Now that that humbling experience of getting your holiday snaps back from Boots, to find out that, from a roll of film of 36 pictures, 35 are out of focus, have red eye or are of your feet, is no longer with us, it's good to see so many major galleries showing collections from the magic box that is a camera to remind us that photography isn't just a means to record people, places, events etc but a creative outlet to inspire, provoke and question. 

THE LIGHT SHOW

'The Light Show' at The Hayward Gallery on the South Bank is a collection of exhibits that explore artists response to light as a material. You are greeted by a cascading waterfall of sequenced flashes of light like a glittering sparkler shower from the majestic 'Cylinder' by Leo Villareal. A good opener for a show that has drama and power throughout. 


'Cylinder' 2012, Leo Villareal.

The exhibition continues with  instillations that play tricks with your senses, sometimes disorientating, sometimes disturbing, sometimes calming, at all times engaging and interactive. Neon, fibreoptic, halogen, and LED are all used to create light, dark, shadow and colour. One minute you're standing within a smokey single beam of light in a dense dark room, the next sent into a claustrophobic eternity of surrounding repetitious lights and mirror when you step into  Ivan Navarro's Tardis-like phone-box, 'Reality Show', finally ending with the overwhelming nausea inducing effects of strobes set on water fountains.  

'Magic Hour'[2004], David Batchelor

Painting with coloured light, Carlos Cruz-Diez's 'Chromosaturation' [1965-2013]

Inspiring? Very. Especially as it turns ones thoughts to the visual effects of light on perception of colour and space. It also triggered comparisons and usage to other disciplines. For example 'Chromosaturation' reminded me of the Modernist Mexican architect Louis Barragan whose use of colour was integral to his buildings, but also relied on the Mexican tropical light to bring out their colourful vibrancy.



Above, 3 examples of Barragan's work.

Bright and blocked colour has been prevalent in interiors and products for sometime and a trend as popular as this takes a while to wane, but I do think that light is going to play a big part over the next couple of seasons on how we look and perceive colour. Brights will become more diluted, bleached, and reflective or deeper and intense as if someone turned the lights out on a room of colour.



Our new Taiwan tieback colourway using deep rich colour.
Available from Jessica Light Shop

Sunday, 3 February 2013

JESSICA LIGHT FOR JOHN LEWIS.

 I grew up with John Lewis. The Oxford Street branch was just a hop, skip and a jump on the 53 bus from Camden Town. I was at my most frequent a customer during my teenage years when I started making my own clothes and their fabric department [then the whole ground floor]became my sanctuary of choice when I bunked off school. For me it was an enchanted forest of fabrics. From everyday corduroys of every hue to papery Honan silk that rustled under one's touch.
I spent so much time there that even my peers began to notice my absence from the usual adolescent revelries. 'Where's Jessie? 'She's gone to John Lewis...again!'. I was even teased mercilessly by the boy next door about it, just before he and his pesky mate emptied my underwear drawer out of the window into the street below, causing the tree in our front garden to suddenly sprout bizarre bra and knicker shaped blooms.
The John Lewis building is so familiar to me that I sometimes forget it also introduced me to Barbara Hepworth, who went on to become one of my favorite artists.

Barbara Hepworth sculpture on the side of John Lewis, Oxford Street


Barbara Hepworth studied at the Leeds School of Art, where she met Henry Moore who she was to be associated with artistically for the most of her career. She continued her training at the Royal Collage of Art, London.
Working in mainly stone and wood applying carving techniques, she soon became one of the leading exponents of the abstract art movement in Britain in the 1930's.
She married her second husband, artist Ben Nicolson, in 1932 who exposed her to wider European art movements. They later moved to St Ives, Cornwall, where Barbara died tragically in 1975 in a fire in her studio.
For me her work has always exuded a warmth and aesthetic perfection of form that comes from her complete sympathy for the materials she used. Unlike Moore, whose sculpture I find leaden and cold [although I love his drawings and textile designs which have life and vibrancy]Hepworth's work pulls you in to have a physical connection with it. You just want to hug it, and if you are ever in St Ives go and see her studio and garden which is now a wonderful museum.

Examples of Hepworths work.

So it seems quite apt that my first foray into the retail world should be with John Lewis, a store it seems, that not only I feel, but everyone I speak to, still holds an affection and trust with it's customers today as it always did.

Above and below,
Jessica Light Trims and Tassels products now available in 
John Lewis, Oxford Street and Edinburgh branches and on the John Lewis website


And what happened to the boy next door? Well he became a very talented graphic designer with his own highly successful practice, 01.02,and who, incidentally, designed my logo. Ta dah!



Wednesday, 12 December 2012

ALL I WANT FOR CHRISTMAS.....

.... apart from a good rest, which I won't get because the only candle we'll be burning at both ends this Christmas will be in the workshop on production... is that for 2013 to carry on in the same vein as the latter half of 2012.
It seems a rocket has gone off at Jessica Light Trims and Tassels and hurtled us into a stratosphere of order after order after order. Hurrah.
Our diffusion range, available on Jessica Light Shop, has been a cosmic success with weekly sales. In fact we haven't been able to make them fast enough and our passementerie jewels have been orbiting the globe. From Aus to US, Ireland to Holland, all over the UK, hotels to homes are have been invaded by bright, bouncy aliens of the tasseltastic species.

Our diffusion key tassels.


The bespoke side is also flourishing and one's weavers thighs have had a wonderful work out this year with a plethora of orders from new and old clients. The Old Codger and I wove until exhaustion and very nearly came to blows, and could have done with some loom counseling, but we treadled our way though the meteor shower.
A bespoke trim being woven.

Going into 2013, an order for 24 bespoke rosettes for a dining room in Palm Beach, Florida

Out and about I did a live weave at The Cottage Project pop up space in The New Balance Olympic hospitality suite at the top of The Millbank Tower. With it's beautiful 260 views of London I insisted on pointing out the hospital I was born in to anyone who came within a 20m radius of me

The Old Codger
Above, dressing the loom.
Below, weaving.
Both images copyright The Cottage Project

A lovely London summers day
You can see the hospital I was born in in this picture
London at dusk

We also showed independently during The London Design Festival collaborating with Precious McBane on Gone to Earth. We presented two new collections in an interior instillation which featured The Tassily chair.

The Tassily

Looking ahead through the fringe of Christmas future to 2013 we see on the horizon an exciting product launch for a major retailer in February, the unveiling of a second diffusion range in late spring and many more trimalicious comets taking off from the Urban Croft and swooshing through the sky to the outer reaches of the Universe. The futures bright- The futures green.


The Tassel Queen Of Bethnal Green
wishes one and all
Merry Yuletide and a Happy New Year
xxx